Can a new fashion editor make Britain great?
London – in order to mislead a great Londoner, if these londoners were not the worst of the post-british period, then they were not the best of times. The country has been through a series of disasters this year, from terrorist attacks to political disasters to increasingly dysfunctional organizations that are increasingly dysfunctional. According to a recent review by Steven Erlanger of the New York times, the UK is “unwavering, unable to act” and “embracing an introverted and irrelevance”.
But there is hardly any place for British vogue in December. The new version is the first release of Edward Enninful’s management, which was named editor in April, with a tone of arrogance, joy and unabashedly pride. The cover photo is the British model and activists Adwoa Aboah striking features, not even with the name of the name, this itself is a disclaimer: Zadie Smith, Naomi Campbell, Sadiq Khan, Steve McQueen, Grace Coddington, Skepta. The slogan of the question? Great Britain.
Enninful, 45, was born in Ghana and grew up in west London. In his early teens, he became a fashion editor for iD magazine at the age of 18, combining his new career with a degree from the university of London. His credits include served as director of fashion and style W ¯ ¯, and contributing editor of fashion in Italy, where he led the magazine featuring “black” for the first time, only black, it sold 60000 additional copy of the print so it is necessary to success. His fashion ideas already embracing inclusiveness, instead of the ivory tower, some model Naomi Campbell said in August, when she posted a picture before the British fashion all white editors to her sets a page. “Now @edward_enninful is the editor, looking forward to an inclusive and diverse workforce,” Campbell wrote.
But the transition has not been smooth. Enninful predecessor, Alexandra Shulman (Alexandra Shulman) in the magazine editor for 25 years, in October for “fashion business” magazine wrote an article, is presumed in Enninful photographs, sets a account has more than 600000 followers, and often includes Campbell rihanna. To edit an important magazine, she writes, “for those who don’t want to work time, of course, is not a job, he thinks that the main part of the job is taken by a series of designer clothes have a name list of friends of”.
Conde nast international did not respond to Atlantic’s request for Enninful’s interview, although he had been politely responding in the past when asked about shulman. But it is clear from December’s problems that his views on British “fashion” are deeply influenced by his social circle, including a wide range of people from all backgrounds. The line between fashion and pop culture is blurry, and British “fashion” can see it even more than its editorial content. Singer saint Vincent, wearing the minimal makeup, mimics a few pages of diamond earrings spread on two pages of tiffany’s. Actress ZoeKravitz is a model for Saint Laurent. Valentino’s ads placed models in evening gowns and high heels, alongside models for tracksuits and plastic slides.
But the first problem with Enninful is its confidence and its bold sense of place. He wrote in his first editor’s letter: “I am sure that my first issue of Vogue will be a real celebration of Britain. But what should such a celebration look like in 2017? … It is time to redefine the meaning of Vogue today. Open it. ”
The December issue, he declared, was “a British issue: a salute to the country and the people who have done well at home and abroad”. This applies both to fashion photography and to writing. In a fascinating article about the queen, Windsor, “Zadie Smith pays tribute to world leaders and monarchs who believe that her cultural imprint is significantly lower than the middle class.” Power game actress Gwendoline Christie wrote about the narrow concept of women in contemporary movies and television. And, in a feature called “love letter to the British”, formerly known as One Direction of the star Zayn Malik and noble fashion designer Daphne Guinness (Daphne Guinness) image of diversity, for their favorite British institutions offer the fragment. (the northern city of Bradford, malik writes, “is a place with a long history and is the heart of Great Britain.” )
The December issue is a powerful statement of a brand that seems to be not only of its own contemporary significance, but also of national relevance. Britain has been buffeted by bad press lately and is increasingly convinced that its long, overgrown cultural footprint is disappearing. Dutch writer, Joe lui, jelinek (Joris Luyendijk) in the November issue of journal of “outlook” (Prospect) wrote, he used to hate English, the reason is that “class division, class, and a small press”. Enninful the first phase of the “Vogue” appears to present a defined by the democratic culture: one is John Galliano (John Galliano) in the elephant and castle (London) bus in an interview in London (London), another is Naomi Campbell (Naomi Campbell) memories London mayor Daniel sudick Khan (Sadiq Khan) Khan explained that London’s secret is the secret of every great city in the world: “talent”.
This is what Enninful shows in creativity and originality, and provides a unique contrast to the British decline narrative. Enninful wrote in his first question: “whatever you think of brexit, we can all agree on one thing: we are a group of talented people.