Can the new fashion editor make Britain a better place?
London – to mislead a great Londoner, if these londoners are not the worst of post-british times, they are not the best of times. This year, the country has experienced a series of disasters, from terrorist attacks to political disasters to increasingly dysfunctional organizations. According to a recent review by Steven erlanger in the New York times, Britain is “determined, unable to act” and “embracing introversion is irrelevant”.
But December’s British fashion is almost nowhere. The new version, the first by Edward Enninful’s management, was named editor in April with pride, joy and fearless pride. The cover photo, which features British model and activist Adwoa Aboah, has no name, is a disclaimer in itself: Zadie Smith, Naomi Campbell, Sadiq Khan, Steve McQueen, Grace Coddington, Skepta. What is the slogan of this question? Great Britain.
Enninful, 45, was born in Ghana and grew up in west London. As a teenager, he became a fashion editor for iD magazine at 18, combining his new career with a degree from university college London. His works include W as fashion and style of the director, as well as the Italian fashion contributing editor, his first in “black” as the leading magazine, only black, it sold 60000 copies of additional print, so it is necessary for success. His fashion ideas already contains an inclusive, instead of the ivory tower, some model Naomi Campbell said in August, when she posted a photo before the British fashion, her all white edit a page set up. “@edward_enninful is now an editor, looking forward to an inclusive and diverse workforce,” Campbell wrote.
But the transition has not been smooth. Enninful’s predecessor, Alexandra Shulman (Alexandra Shulman) in magazine editor work for 25 years, in October to “fashion business” magazine to write an article, speculation in Enninful photos, set up an account with more than 60 fan, and often included in Campbell hanard. In order to edit an important magazine, she wrote, “for those who don’t want to go to work time, of course, is not a job, he thinks the job is the main part consists of a series of famous brand clothing making a list of friends.
Conde nast international did not respond to Atlantic’s request for an interview with Enninful, although he had been polite in the past when asked about shulman. But it is clear from the December issue that his views on British “fashion” are deeply influenced by his social circle, including a wide range of people from different backgrounds. The line between fashion and popular culture is blurred, and British “fashion” can even see its editorial content. The singer, saint Vincent, wore minimal make-up, mimicked several pages of diamond earrings and spread them over two pages of tiffany. Actress ZoeKravitz models for Saint Laurent. Valentino’s ads feature models in evening gowns and heels, as well as sportswear and plastic slides.
But Enninful’s first problem is its confidence and sense of boldness. He wrote in the first editor’s letter: “I believe my first issue of Vogue will be a real celebration of Britain. But what should such celebrations look like in 2017? …… It’s time to redefine what Vogue means. Open it. ”
The problem in December, he declared, was “the British problem: paying tribute to good people at home and abroad”. This applies to fashion photography and writing. In a fascinating article about the queen, Windsor, “Zadie Smith pays tribute to world leaders and monarchs who believe her cultural imprint is significantly lower than that of the middle class.” Game of thrones actress Gwendoline Christie wrote about the narrow concept of women in contemporary movies and television. And, in a name in “love letter” to the British, formerly known as a direction of the star zhaan malik and noble fashion designer Daphne Guinness (Daphne Guinness) the diversity of the image, provides for their favorite British institutions. (the northern city of Bradford, merrick writes, “is a historic place and the heart of Britain.”) )
December is a powerful brand statement that seems not only relevant today, but also relevant to the country. Britain has recently been hit by a bad press and is increasingly convinced that its long and excessive cultural footprint is disappearing. Dutch writer Joe lu, Jeremiah’s (Joris Luyendijk) in the November issue of the journal “outlook” (Prospect) wrote, he used to hate English, the reason for this is that “class division, class and small news”. The first phase of the “Vogue” seems to put forward the definition of democratic culture: one is John Galliano (John Galliano) in the elephant and castle (London) on the bus to an interview with London (London), the other one is Naomi Campbell (Naomi Campbell recalls the mayor of London, Daniel, Sudick Khan (Sadiq Khan) Khan explained that London’s secret is the secret of every great city in the world: “talent”.
This is Enninful’s expression in creativity and originality, and provides a unique contrast to the British decline narrative. Enninful wrote on his first question: “no matter how you look at brexit, we can agree on one thing: we are a group of talented people.